Pictures of visitors' Suzuki motorcycles
1994 GSX600F rider report

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Model specific pages and other brands Visitors' Suzuki GSX1400, Page 1 Visitors' Suzuki GSX1400, Page 2 Visitors' Suzuki GSX1400, Page 3 Visitors' Suzuki GSX1400, Page 4 Visitors' Suzuki GSX1400, Page 5 Visitors' Suzuki GSX1400, Page 6 Visitors' Suzuki GSX1400, Page 7 Visitors' Suzuki GS750T, Page 1 Visitors' Other Bikes, Page 1 Visitors' Other Bikes, Page 2 Visitors' Other Bikes, Page 3 Visitors' Other Bikes, Page 4

”I've enclosed pictures that show my bike and me (with marvellous helmet hair formed by 500 km on the road in one go) in not so good quality, and a couple that shows my bike together with a CB750 (good quality),” Eirik writes. Here's more Suzuki GSX600F info.

1994 Suzuki GSX600F Owner: Eirik Skjæveland, Norway Comments: ”General impressions of the bike after approximately 2,500 kilometers (1600 miles) suggest that it is very, nimble and easy to ride. The engine is flexible, but definitely comes alive above 8,000 rpm. From there on until the rev limiter cuts in at 12,000 rpm, it has enough power to produce quarter mile times in the elevens. Comfort is surprisingly good, something I would never have imagined up front. This is the first bike in 25 years of riding that doesn't cause me any sore spots even after hours on the road. The only intrusion upon comfort is noise; the screen is too steep and stirs the air behind into a turmoil that makes ear protection mandatory at elevated speeds. The suspension is rather crude but acceptably comfy. I'm close to 100 kg with all my gear and I run the rear shock on the highest preload and maximum rebound damping. Reducing the rebound to its #3 setting increases comfort, at the cost of a slightly bouncy ride at times. The front fork is much too soft and bottoms regularly under braking; adding more oil and/or preloading the stock springs should provide a cheap and useful upgrade. Cornering clearance is very good even with the soft suspension. A bit of nitpicking will reveal mirrors that show mostly arms and torso and very little road, and the engine vibrates a bit in the midrange. Maintenance is mostly straight forward but time consuming due to the all-enclosing bodywork sitting in the way. Brakes are strong but require high effort to really haul the bike down from speed. In conclusion it's a solid and reliable bike that offer real-world performance for sporty road transport, although it's way past its gone-by date for track use.” The comments above are just a resume of Eirik's report. You can read the full version here below!

1994 SUZUKI GSX 600 F KATANA rider report   Although I have only ridden the bike for a bit over 2,500 kilometers (about 1,600 miles), I feel it is sufficient to give a pretty thorough description on what this Suzuki model is all about.   While my bike was made in 1994, it was first registered in 1996. The differences between the two are negligible; the most important change for an owner to know about is that the 1996 model and later uses different spark plugs.   There really haven't been made an awful lot of changes to the bike over the years. First introduced in 1988, it received new and wider wheels along with upgraded suspension for 1989. The chassis then remained for all practical purposes identical until it was significantly overhauled for 1998, when it got wider wheels still and dressed in a completely new cloak. The engine was also detuned from a claimed 86 to 78 hp, but the actual difference was minute.   Due to the overall likeness between 1988 and present, most of my discoveries and impressions should be describing of any and all versions of the Kat, as I prefer to call it for short, although most accurately relate to the 1989-1997 models.   The bike had almost 46,000 kilometers (around 28,000 miles) on the dial at the time of purchase. Mechanically it seemed to be in good order, with the rear tyre showing off the most wear with only about 1/3 left of its life.   Having read several magazine test reports on the model, what I feared most was engine vibrations making its way to the handlebars. My hands numb very easily; I used to own a Kawasaki Z1300 Six, and even it would put my hands to sleep at various rpm. However, I was pleasantly surprised that my digits remained fresh after the first 250 km non-stop ride.   I was also sceptical about the dramatic forward lean required to reach the low clip-ons, particularly since I've done most of my riding on “standard” bikes with much more upright riding positions. My scepticism was completely unfounded, though, because the little Kat is beyond comparison the least tiring bike I have ever ridden!   The seating position isn't comfortable the moment you sit on it, though. The legs are severely folded in order to fit on top of the high placed pegs, and the reach to the bars is, as already mentioned, quite substantial. (For the record, I'm 180 cm [5'11”] and 90 kg net [200 lbs] with short legs and long torso.) It isn't as dramatic as a pure race replica, but it is a lot closer to that than a Gold Wing, to put it like that.   However, the seat is expansive and allows quite a bit of fore and aft movement. In addition it feels natural to move the feet around on the pegs and also adjust the angle of the torso along with the weight placed on the hands. The result is that I, at least, never get stale or sore on the bike. I have never suffered a sore bum or a stiff neck or any other discomfort while riding on the Kat, a first for me after riding for 25 years and having owned 18 bikes previously.   The most annoying part is the windscreen. It is too steep and cut at the wrong height. The end result is annoying turbulence that manifests itself as painful noise inside the helmet at speed. Trying to creep down behind the fairing only makes it worse; sitting as upright as possible with only the fingertips on the handlebar grips makes it tolerable. Standing upright on the pegs makes for serene cruising for the ears, but isn't very practical. I have a few ideas on how to improve things (just resting a hand on top of the screen changes the flow of air and reduce the noise significantly), but until I get my lazy arse off the chair and perform some tests there really isn't much to tell.   Another cause for minor irritation is the mirrors. They shake a little at all speeds, but not enough that it becomes difficult to see what's behind. Unfortunately, they are spaced so narrowly that only about 1/5 shows the road behind, the rest is wasted on arms and torso, neither of which holds much interest in traffic situations.   After the initial ride, which took place in torrential rain at a sedate pace, I have later learned that the engine does indeed buzz. It is worst in the lower gears in the midrange between 5,000 and 8,000 rpm. In top gear, when cruising, the buzz isn't too bad. But if I hustle the backroads, using 2nd and 3rd gear and playing wild with the throttle, my fingers quickly goes numb. The tendency to grip the bars harder when charging probably accentuates this, but it's still unpleasant. When revs are kept above 8,000 rpm, the engine is glassy smooth. This is also were it feels happiest and makes the most power.   Top gear acceleration is very good, especially when considering its size and state of tune. But unfortunately I have some jetting problems with the carburettors. It is running too rich just above idle and burbles powerlessly below 3,000 rpm unless the throttles are opened up significantly. Then it becomes progressively leaner as the revs climb, and anything above half-throttle makes the bike accelerate slower. I can also sense a drop in torque around 6,500-7,500 rpm. From then on, things start to become right and it starts to scream above 8,000 rpm and carburets perfectly from there all the way to the limiter cuts in at 12,700 rpm. (All rpm figures are readings off my tachometer, which probably is a bit optimistic since the rev limiter should make its presence felt at an actual 12,000 rpm according to the manual.)   So how on earth can I claim it has good top gear acceleration? Because if I hold the throttle half-open, the Kat accelerates from 60 to120 kph (about 40 to 80 mph) in 10-11 seconds in top gear. This is on par with magazine test results, despite me being heavier and larger than the typical test rider. (I've added 10% to the speedometer readings while performing these tests to adjust for expected optimistic instruments.) When I get the jetting right, it should perform even stronger.   It will also reach the rev limiter in 5 th gear in approximately 600 meters from a standing start, which calculates to 210 kph (130 mph), again indicating a healthy engine. I haven't tried if it will accelerate further in 6 th gear because the straight wasn't long enough. (Note: This was naturally performed on a closed course as speeding is strictly prohibited on public roads...). In fact, both all-out and top gear acceleration matches that of an acquaintance' Triumph Daytona 900 triple.   After a short while with me, the engine began missing on cylinder number one. I suspected a partially clogged carburettor since the bike had been sitting idle for nearly a year before I bought it, and stripped all carburettors for a good clean. We found a bit of dirt in the bowls, although the jets all appeared clean. The diaphragm on the #4 carburettor had a pinhole in it and I began wondering if I had mixed up the two end cylinders. I replaced the diaphragm (on the 1988 model, you must replace the whole piston) and the spark plugs and expected things to be fine. They weren't.   I then measured the ignition coils and found the one for cylinder #1 and #4 to be shorted internally. With the coil replaced, I fully expected the engine to run better than ever, only now it was cylinder #4 that was acting up. There was only one thing left to change at that point; the spark plug cap. On close inspection I found evidence it was leaking. This had probably also killed the coil. With a new cap, the engine finally ran like it old self again.   Getting to the carburettors is some sort of a pain, with a lot of bolts and screws to undo. For instance, getting the valve cover and the carburettors off require the undoing of 70 screws; a Honda CB250/400N Super Dream only needs 7. But time wasted when digging underneath the bodywork is saved back during cleaning sessions; washing the Kat is just like washing a car.   Since the bodywork had already been taken off, I checked the valves as well. 14 valves were right on the maximum clearance limit, whereas the final two were slightly over the limit. I could interchange the shims so that 15 were perfectly adjusted to maximum limit and only had to buy one new shim to get the final one right. Suzuki claims the valves should be checked every 6,000 km (3,600 miles), but unless there are things suggesting things are off, I plan to leave the top end alone until the engine has reached 100,000 km (62,000 miles). Chances are slim that anything will need attention before that with a valve actuating system like this. Note that several model years came with screw adjusters instead of shims; these will need more frequent attention.   Finally back on the road, it was time to learn more about how the bike handles. And it handles very well, thank you. So far, it hasn't hinted at a shake or a wobble, despite riding on soft suspension.   The front fork is the worst offender, wasting more than 2/5 of its total travel sitting static with me in the normal riding position. The natural consequence is that it bottoms out well before maximum braking is achieved, increasing the risk of premature locking of the wheel. It hasn't caused enough concern for me to do anything about it yet, but I'll add at least 25 mm (1 in.) of fork oil in each leg during winter service to counter the bottoming. I may even preload the spring 10 mm as well. Setting rebound damping to the #2 position has produced a decent compromise between comfort and control so far.   The rear shock is also quite soft despite sitting on maximum preload already. With a heavy passenger and some luggage it doesn't take much provocation to bottom, but it copes adequately with a passenger of average weight.   As it was delivered, the damping was set to the #3 out of 4 positions. The ride was comfortable, but slightly bouncy over big bumps. Upping the damping to maximum increased control with a slight deterioration in comfort, an acceptable compromise.   Steering is light and quick, at least for an old bloke like me used to standards from the ‘70s and ‘80s. It is also precise, although if I move my butt to the inside of a corner and let my torso follow in the same general direction, it's like it gains power steering and it becomes harder for me to place the wheels accurately. I'll just have to keep practicing, I guess, until I get the hang of it and reduce the inputs a little.   Cornering clearance is so far better than I need; a first for me. I have managed to rid the front tyre of its chicken strips, although the edge hasn't been stressed hard. The rear rim is only slightly wider than the front compatriot, but the tyre is quite a bit wider. The result is that the rear tyre gets pinched a bit more and hence I'm left with a 3mm chicken strip on both edges, indication that the front and rear profiles doesn't match each other perfectly.   The bike becomes very reluctant towards leaning over further than that, although it goes smoothly and quickly up (down?) to that point. Even using excessive pressure on the handlebars fails to lean it over further. If this is caused by a reluctant bike or my own personal fear is so far not established, but until proven wrong I choose to say it's something with the bike or tyres.   Fitted to the bike is a pair of Dunlop D205 touring radials in the stock sizes (110/80ZR17 front and 140/80ZR17 aft). So far, wear has been next to zero so they should last about forever. Grip is good for the most part, although they don't give a sensation that they won't let go. The feeling is a bit numb, I'd say, but they've never let go on dry or wet asphalt as of yet.   Old and worn tarmac, on the other hand, is an entirely different matter. Here, they unpredictably lose all grip; it's almost like riding on gravel. Both tyres will lock up easily and slide, the front going straight if kept on the very edge of lockup, with the tail slewing from side to side like a good fishtail. Neither tyre lets off any sound of complaints; it's all eerily silent while sliding along. Spooky!   On the same sort of road surface the rear will slide out early under even mild acceleration out of corners. If it had happened only once, I would be inclined to believe it was just one of those things, but whenever I stumble upon worn tarmac where they have used comparatively big and smooth gravel stones as the main ingredients, the tyres will slide with little provocation. No other bike I've had has done this, and the already mentioned Daytona riding on Bridgestone BT-020s had absolutely no problem there, so it's bound to be the tyres. I'll replace them before next season, either with said Bridgestones or Avon Azaros. Pity, since the front is brand new, but I'd rather have the grip to ride briskly instead of like and old lady on winding, old backroads.   Hitting the brakes midcorner doesn't upset the bike, with only a trace of standing up felt. Also, letting off the brakes in a corner leaves the bike completely neutral. For me, who like to trail brake deep into corners, these features are of vital importance. I can also let go of the handlebars at any speed or even while cornering without any disturbances.   The brakes are like I want them, full four finger jobbies. I tend to grab the lever hard in a panic situation and it's nice not to be rewarded with an instantly locked front wheel. It can be locked, of course, but you really have to squeeze in order to do so. But if you like a two-finger brake, look elsewhere. The rear brake is also perfectly controllable and powerful if used alone, but can lock a bit easily if the front is used close to maximum.   The gearbox shifts smoothly apart from the 1 st to 2 nd upshift, which is noisy and will miss all together if I'm not swift and accurate with my movements. Fortunately, this only happens under full acceleration at higher revs; I usually short shift to avoid the problem. Drivetrain lash is well controlled and the bike is easy to ride without jerky moves.   Keeping the speed down on this bike can be difficult because it revs so freely. The slightest movement of the throttle cause the bike to speed up or slow down, usually the former. Also under a steady cruise it's easy to let the speed creep up a little due to the engine's eagerness. I've had bikes twice the size of this that needed more throttle to start accelerating, although they would ultimately be faster if the throttle was opened more.   In conclusion I will say that this is a sensible all-rounder with the ability to go faster than any prudent man or woman ever should on the road. If you are left behind while riding this motorcycle on public roads, you are probably riding with a group that doesn't care about living long and well. The Kat will also tour better than many tourers, at least as long as you go solo, and it is mechanically simple and reliable. To make the bike even better, improved suspension along with a wider rear rim plus a bigger engine tuned for lots of midrange power would all be nice. Sounds like a Bandit 1200 to me...   Eirik Skjæveland, Norway

Updated: October 21, 2004



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